French active-ingredient manufacturer Silab has introduced Metallomia, a detoxifying cosmetic ingredient developed specifically for menopausal skin. According to the company, it is designed to address a deficit in ferritinophagy — the process that governs the controlled release of iron to meet cell requirements — identified in menopausal skin through a new modelling study.
Silab links that deficit to a shortage of bioavailable iron, which it says drives premature skin ageing, a phenomenon the company terms metallo-aging. UV radiation is presented as an aggravating factor: exposure promotes the breakdown of iron/ferritin complexes, releasing iron in a massive and uncontrolled manner and generating substantial oxidative stress.
The design logic therefore addresses two sides of the same problem: too little iron reaching cells, and too much iron released at the wrong moment. Silab describes the mechanisms as complementary — restarting ferritinophagy restores iron delivery and reactivates the main epidermal functions, while limiting the breakdown of iron/ferritin complexes keeps free iron in check when skin is irradiated.
Reported efficacy
Silab states that this targeted mechanism significantly reduces metallo-aging. In its studies, the skin of Caucasian volunteers was described as revitalised from 14 days, with a reinforced barrier and a more unified, radiant complexion, while pigment spots were reported to be significantly reduced in Asian volunteers after 28 days.
A separate set of observations covers UV exposure. Applied by Caucasian volunteers before UV exposure, the ingredient was reported to prevent lipid peroxidation, and the appearance of redness was limited in the hours following exposure. These outcomes are reported by Silab.
Marshmallow root sourcing
For Metallomia, Silab turned to the molecular composition of marshmallow roots, which are particularly rich in mucilages. The company established a traced supply chain with French partners, validated the supply against the criteria of the European Pharmacopoeia and authenticated it by DNA barcoding. To exploit the roots' mucilage content, it developed a specific enzyme engineering process to extract polyuronides.
Formulation
Metallomia is a patented ingredient recommended in all care products intended for menopausal skin at a dose of 0.5% to 2%. It is supplied as an aqueous solution, which the company describes as easy to formulate. Silab says the ingredient complies with biodiversity regulations, has a natural origin content of 100% under ISO 16128, and meets international cosmetics regulations in markets including Europe, the United States, China and Japan.